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UGotGlass Support Forum
Welcome to the UGotGlass Message Board. We get calls and emails every day asking us for advice on fusing, PMC, equipment etc.... so we decided to add this board as a way of consolidating this support. Hope you find it helpful. Please feel free to ask questions, make comments etc....NOTE: We do reserve the right to remove any post for any reason without notice to the poster. |
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| Viewing Page 1 of 1 (Total Posts: 33) |
| Author | Comment This topic is sticky |
Nancy Tang
 Jul 2, 05 - 5:01 PM |
Fusing Questions
Use this thread to ask questions about your fusing projects or any of our fusing products. |
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Mary
Jul 11th, 2005 - 10:38 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
I've got the Rio Grande version of the Paragon kiln (with bead door), and I want to use it for glass fusing. Any suggestions or resources for programming the kiln for glass? Thanks! Mary |
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Nancy Tang
Jul 18th, 2005 - 6:01 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi Mary: This is very similar to the Paragon SC2 I believe. Full fuse in the SC2 is about 1500-1540 for 20 minutes at full speed. You should put some pieces on a shelf and test fire using the USER program. Full speed, 1500, 20 minutes, stop. Wait till the kiln is under 500 before opening the door. Let me know if you have any other questions and let me know how this works for you... Nan |
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Karen
Jul 19th, 2005 - 12:52 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
I make fused glass jewelry and other items and would like to drill holes in some of my items rather than glueing on findings. I bought a Dremel tool and an accessory that Dremel calls a 'Diamond Point' and managed to drill holes with that putting my approximately 1/4" glass just barely under water and lifting the drill occasionally to make sure the hole fills with water. Since that particular accessory says on the package that it is for carving, engraving and fine finishing and NOT FOR DRILLING I did some research and ended up buying some diamond core drill bits (2. mm) figuring that was the proper tool. NO LUCK! I tried several times, making no progress and then pressing too hard so that the glass broke. I even tried making a starter hole with the diamond point and that did nothing. For the meantime I will make my holes with the diamond point but wonder what went wrong with the diamond core which is what all my on line research recommended. Any ideas? thanks, Karen Drosnes |
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Nancy Tang
Jul 20th, 2005 - 1:43 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi Karen: Your description of the process sounds on the money and that should be working for you. I've heard some other folks complaining about having difficulty using the hollow core bits but I use them and they work fine??? Not sure what the problem is there... there is a little hole in mine about 1/4" - 1/2" from the tip that allows the water to drain out while drilling... do yours have this? There were several threads about drilling on WarmGlass.com that you might find helpful... they have an archive so you can search on 'drilling' and will find lots of useful stuff there..... Best, Nan |
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Pat
Aug 2nd, 2005 - 12:59 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi - I'm new to fusing - about two months now - getting better but still have questions. For a drop ringmold, are there any particular things I should do for them, i.e., temperature, more than one layer, etc. I have a Skutt Hotstart. Also, it there any alternative to using hot temp wire for earrings. I don't like the way it looks but have no idea what else I could use. Thanks for your help. Patty |
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Nancy Tang
Aug 2nd, 2005 - 5:58 PM |
Drop rings & metal inclusions
Hi Patty: OK. First, you can use fine silver wire in your pieces... it's not as strong as nichrome wire but it remains silver and is nicer for jewelry. Drop ring mold, I have never actually done these but understand you need more glass around the portion that will stretch the most. Check the warmglass.com board.. do a search on drop ring molds and you'll probably find all the answers you need. They have some howto articles as well. Hope that helps, Nan |
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Karen
Aug 2nd, 2005 - 6:16 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi Nancy! I'm having a heck of a time cutting/breaking small pieces of glass for making earrings and pendents. I'm not sure if the error has to do my cutting or my breaking...so I was thinking...would I be better off fusing big pieces, cutting them to size with my band saw...and then refiring. or should I stop down for a quick lesson in cutting/breaking? LOL I should probably let you know that I don't have much trouble breaking larger pieces...it seems to be pieces under 1/2 inch or so? Thanks so much, Karen in Ellsworth 
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Nancy Tang
Aug 11th, 2005 - 10:02 AM |
Breaking Small Bits
Hi Karen: I use the Morton Grid & Portable Glass Studio for cutting small bit for earrings and pendants. It shouldn't be any different than cutting large pieces  ... are you using breaking pliers to snap off the smaller bits? If you're still having trouble, stop by and we'll give it a go....Nan PS: Sorry for the delay in responding.... didn't see your post till today for some reason.... |
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Karen
Aug 11th, 2005 - 9:17 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi Nancy, I'll probably have to plan to stop down because I just can't seem to get it. Maybe I'll pick up some running pliers while I'm there...mine are getting pretty warn and I don't think they're a good quality pair anyway. Talk to you soon! Karen void(0); void(0); |
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Narriman
Aug 17th, 2005 - 3:17 PM |
Re: Comment on Karen's Fusing Questions
For Karen and her cutting issues: Happened tp see a solution for your cutting issues in the recent Jun/July "Glass Cratsman" batch section. The artists fused in larger, deeper layers. After fusing, these larger slabs were cut into jewelry cabs and fire polished. I swear I will never frustrate myself cutting and pasting small bits ever again! It helps to eliminate the slippage and bubble factor of the smaller pieces. You do however have to ramp slowly and soak adequately. NE |
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Nancy Tang
Aug 18th, 2005 - 11:58 AM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Yes, many people do fuse in larger blocks and then but those into smaller pieces....which method you choose depends on what you're trying to do...each has it's place. N |
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Neil W.
Nov 1st, 2005 - 2:44 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Please give me guidance. I have just finished my first hemisphere paperweight project and I am not happy with the results. Let me layout the details: I used broken pieces of Bullseye billet COE 90 glass, a few compatible dichroic scraps and a few small copper mesh metal inclusions. I am using my Hot Start Skutt kiln with the Glassmaster LT Pro controller programmable upgrade. My fusing firing schedule was: 250 dph, hold at 300 for 10 mins 250 dph, hold at 1200 for 30 mins (bubble squeeze?) AFAP to 1465 and hold for 15 mins for full fuse AFAP to 960 and hold for 2 hrs 30 dph to 800 and hold for 1 hr 30 dph to 700 and hold for 1 hr Off and cool to 100 degrees I did notice a few bubbles so I will slow down the firing between 1200 and 1465 next time. The fused hemisphere came out as expected with a smooth glassy bottom with Maine pickeds on the edges. After cooling for many hours I ground the pickeds off and placed the water washed hemisphere on thinfire paper on the kiln shelf in the kiln. I then fired to Fire Polish: 250 dph, hold at 300 for 10 mins 250 dph, hold at 1000 for 10 mins 400 dph to 1365 and hold to 10 mins AFAP to 960 and hold for 6 hrs 20 dph to 800 and hold for 1 hr 30 dph to 700 and hold for 1 hr Off and cool to 100 degrees My piece did flatten out maybe 50% from the hemisphere, but most troubling was I did not get a perfectly shiny surface. The surface had a matte finish in spots. I was careful to handle the glass only on the edges after the water washing and prep for the kiln. What do you suggest? I did not grind the 5 little points caused by the fusing glass entering the mold’s air outlets. They disappeared during the fire polishing. Thank you, Neil Wagner ramboneil@keycreditcorp.com |
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Nancy Tang
Nov 4th, 2005 - 10:30 AM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi Neil: I answered this via email but wanted to post the reply here for the benefit of others. There are 2 problems here: 1] The shape flattened out during fire polishing because you fired too hot and/or too long. I would lower the temperature to around 1310 and try again. You may have to refire a bit higher (or lower) until you find the optimal temp for your kiln. 2] Rough surface/surface smutz - could be devitrification or just an unclean surface prior to fire polishing. I use diamond polishing pads(wet) to polish the surface and remove any unwanted texture and surface 'dirt' before fire polishing. I wash only with warm water and then pat dry. Luck, Nan |
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Heather
Nov 20th, 2005 - 3:46 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi Nancy I'm brand new to fusing, in fact my aim kiln is in shipping right as we speak. Could you please tell me the difference between CO90 and 96. I need to buy glass and would like to know the options. Thanks alot 
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Nancy Tang
Nov 21st, 2005 - 8:00 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
COE stands for Coefficient of Expansion which is the rate at which glass contracts and expands as it heats and cools. All the glass fused in one piece needs to have the same COE. 90 has been around a lot longer and is made by Bullseye & Uroboros. Spectrum came out with 96 a few years ago. There are lots of opinions about this and both are fine but you have to select one and stick with it because you don't want to have 2 COEs in the same space.... you will live to regret it if you mix them up. I personally prefer Bullseye because they have been around longer and there are a lot more options as far as materials: frit, cullet, billets, stringer, colors etc.... I'm sure you'll find others who will disagree ...not sure this helps but .... there you go.... Nan |
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Helen Hopkins
Mar 7th, 2006 - 7:00 AM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi I have been wondering for ages how you go about making a donut shaped pendant? I have just done a course on making dichroic glass pendants but all we made was cabs. I would love to make one of those really round donut shaped pendants and for a while thought they were made using a mold. I asked a couple of members on ebay (one didn't respond the other very reluctant to tell me how exactly, just said you have to use drill bits???) I then surfed the web and came across this fab website in the US (i'm in UK). Can anyone here guide me through what exactly I do have to do to make one. I would be really grateful Helen Email: happyhelliebelly@hotmail.com |
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Nancy Tang
Mar 13th, 2006 - 8:43 AM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi: There are two ways to make donuts. I don't make the really round ones but if you were to make them you'd need to get two drill bits - one that is the size of the outside of your donut and one that is the size of the inside hole. You make a big blob of glass.. like a big cab... and then cut out the inside and outside with the drill bits. I make more organic donuts. I lay down pieces of art glass in a somewhat circular or square or triangle shape. The pieces don't have to touch but you do want to leave a hole the size of a quarter (U.S.). Build up several layers of glass and cap with pieces of clear if you want to. Always build in even layers like laying bricks. Always make sure the hole says there. During firing the hole will get smaller as the glass melts down. That's about it. Hope that helps, Nan |
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Chris
Jun 24th, 2006 - 11:24 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi Nancy, Can you tell me about Diamond Sanding Pads and where I can get them. Thanks for your help with this. Chris |
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Lonnie
Mar 15th, 2008 - 8:39 PM |
Re: Re: Fusing Questions
calibrestonetools.com is where I found VERY reasonably priced diamond sanding pads. The pads are sold individually so you can choose the size grit you would like. Calibre shipped quickly too. |
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Brenda
Jul 10th, 2006 - 3:19 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions: sliding cabs
I asked this on the general board, got lots of folks reading it, but no responses. I would love your help, so thought perhaps I posted in the wrong area. I would love your help. I have fused 5 batches of glass cabs and seem to have a problem with the clear cap on some of my cabs. The cap (3mm) is slightly larger than the stacked pieces. I use Elmer's blue glue to hold the stack together. When fused, the clear cap seems to "slide" to one side so that there is an area of just clear glass. In the troubleshooting section is mentioned the technique of stacking glass like a bricklayer. I think that the way I am stacking could be the problem. Can you elaborate on the "stacking like a bricklayer"? Thanks, Brenda Email: brenjs@sbcglobal.net 
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Nancy Tang
Jul 12th, 2006 - 12:08 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi Brenda: Sorry, I haven't been able to get to the support board lately; just too busy filling orders etc... Anywho, I understand your problem. 1] Is your kiln level? Put a level in side and make sure it is. If not, shim up the sides that need it until it is level. 2] I don't recommend any glue except REAL fuser's/pate de verre glue because other glue can leave smutz (technical term meaning dirty looking stuff). 3] Sometimes when you put your shelf in the kiln and then close the door you can shake the shelf so that some pieces slip a little. 4] Sometimes you just can't help this because as the glass begins to melt it may not do so evenly and the top may slip a little. You need to grind off the clear parts and fire polish. 5] Stacking like a bricklayer: Imagine a brick wall in your mind. See how the bottom layer and the next layer are offset? See how there are no gaps where bricks are missing? If you stack unevenly then your upper layers can collapse 1] as you carry the shelf to the kiln and 2] as the glass melts and that little gap slumps down and 3] you may get airbubbles. Now, I'm not saying you can't have gaps, just make sure the next layer 'bridges' over the gap so that the layers remain even.. you may still get air but your piece shouldn't collapse. This isn't easy to decribe in words, sorry! Hope this helps, Nan |
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Brenda
Jul 12th, 2006 - 12:40 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi Nan, thank you for your suggestions on how to prevent sliding cabs. Now if i can locate that level... Brenda 
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Kit
Oct 19th, 2006 - 9:55 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
My Question is about herringbone ripple. How would I go about keeping the texture intact? Would a clear cap do the trick?? Fire texture side down?? I am very, very new to fused glass but not afraid to experiment with anything. Thanks!!  Blessings, Kit~v~
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Nancy Tang
Oct 27th, 2006 - 9:26 AM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi Kit: The question is do you really mean that you want to keep the 'texture' intact? Or do you just want to be able to SEE the texture.... when a texture is fired to full fuse it flattens out BUT you see the difference in coloration so it now looks like a pattern. If you want to keep the actual texture you'll only be able to tack fuse.... Nan |
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Brenda Schack
May 22nd, 2007 - 10:24 PM |
Polishing the back of the cab
My cabs look wonderful, but the backsides do not. When using the fiber paper, the clean up was easier but there was a grainy texture on the back. Now that I am using kiln wash the backs are picking up brush strokes. I am encasing my cabs with metal weaving ans so the back side has become an issue. How can I get a nice smooth polished backside on my cabs? Also the kiln wash seems to only last for one firing and isn't always easily washed or scrubbed away. Thanks for any help! Brenda
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Nancy Tang
May 23rd, 2007 - 12:20 PM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi Brenda: You have a few options - 1] If you are NOT using a Haik bruch to apply your wash then do that as it leaves a smoother surface. 2] Once the kiln wash is dry, rub your hand, or an old piece of nylon stocking, over it and that will remove the texture left by the brush. 3] Using a flat lap grinder OR diamond polishing pad (much harder) sand/grind the bottom of your cabs. Then fire polish. Kiln was tends to stick ...... - depends on brand u use. We use either Hotline or Bullseye brands only. There IS a big difference. - It sticks to opaque, pastel colors more than others .. i.e. white, petal pink stick a lot... black, transparent red etc... do not. - It sticks if you overfire. To remove: Us the rough side of a kitchen sponge with warm water (no soap) and a little elbow grease. If it still wont' come off soak pieces in white vinegar overnight and try the sponge routine again. If all else fails see the part about getting a smooth back on your cabs... LOL.... Hope that helps, Nan
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Brenda Schack
May 23rd, 2007 - 1:23 PM |
Flat backs on cab
Hi Nan, Thanks for your quick reply. Its greatly appreciated. I will try the pany hose for future cabs (I have the haiku brush) and perhaps I need new kiln wash. I got mine several years ago as an enamelist so I have no idea who the maker is. Thanks again! Brenda 
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Ruta
Nov 5th, 2007 - 11:17 AM |
Re: Fusing Questions
I just bought a small mold to make pendants. I haven't been able to find information on how to build the glass in the mold. Do I start with blk frit and then add my decoration to the top? Or, (heaven forbid) do I have to cut the black bottom piece to match the mold shape? Thanks |
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Nancy Tang
Nov 8th, 2007 - 9:38 AM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hello Ruta: Heaven Forbid indeed!! No you don't have to cut your glass to fit the mold. There are 2 types of jewelry molds that we sell - in one type the bottom of the mold is the FRONT of the cab but in the other the bottom of the mold is the BACK. Basically if the bottom of the mold (where you put the glass) is flat then that is the back BUT if it's curved then it's the front. For instance - In the Large tear drop mold the bottom is the back but in the small oval mold (looks like Easter egg) the bottom is the front. So - if the bottom is the back then you'd put your black glass on the bottom - I just use little bits and overlap them. I don't cover the whole bottom but put bits of dichro on a black case over that so it covers any little spots the base misses. I'm not too careful about it. Once you have a bit of black art glass and black backed dichro in there you can add a bunch of pieces of clear dichro or dichro frit. Sometimes I then put a few pieces of thin clear art glass on top but sometimes I just let the clear dichro act as a cap for itself. Does that make sense? Nan |
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Ruta
Nov 27th, 2007 - 10:05 AM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Yes, totally makes sense. Thanks for the info. Off and onward to fuse some pendants (flat back)!!! |
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Dale
Feb 17th, 2008 - 5:17 AM |
Firing Fault
I have recently purchased my first kiln and have started experimenting with glass fusing. However I seem to be having a recurring problem and can’t seem to fix it. When I fire the glass I almost always get a white line around the top edge. I have tried different firing schedules, run trials using no glue and/or cleaning products but always the same results. I can email a picture that could better explain it if that would help. Any advice you can give me would be much appreciated.
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Nancy Tang
Feb 18th, 2008 - 8:05 AM |
Re: Fusing Questions
Hi Dale: Yes if you send me some pics that would help. Also what firing schedule are you using? In my experience, a whitish discoloration around the edge is usually caused by dirty glass... but we'll see... Nan |
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